Visiting the Secret Wonders of Herculaneum
Discussions of catastrophic volcanic eruptions, and specifically the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, often touch on the city of Pompeii and the tragedy that overwhelmed the city and its people. Often overlooked, is the nearby city of Herculaneum, whose people were also effected by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, and whose archeological site is (though similar to Pompeii) wonderous and surprisingly well preserved.
We hadn't initially planned to visit Herculaneum, but when we hired a car service to pick us up from Pompei and drive us back to the Naples city center (before hoping on the ferry to the island of Capri), we added a quick stop along the way to visit the archeological site. Our time was limited and we only allocated a mere 45 minutes to walk through the site, knowing that we wouldn't have time to see everything. Having now been amazed by the ruins and artifacts, we wish we had left much more time to explore the wonders of Herculaneum, and vow to return.
We purchased our entrance tickets to Herculaneum in advance and opted for priority tickets, knowing we were short on time, but tickets can be purchased at the entrance, on the day of the visit for $11 Euro each. Guided tickets are also available, which includes both private and small group tours that would add valuable insight.
Located only 17 km away from Pompeii, the ancient city of Herculaneum sat closer to the base of Mount Vesuvius. A seaside town with a small harbour, it grew into a holiday destination for the wealthy.
On the day of the tragic eruption of Mount Vesuvius, there were two main stages; the rain of pumice rocks and the fast-moving pyroclastic flows of hot ash and gas. During the first stage, the wind direction that day blew the rocks onto Pompeii, causing mass destruction, but spared Herculaneum, giving its people a chance to escape. The second stage, however, buried Herculaneum in 25 meters of ash. Five times the amount of ash that covered Pompeii.
The bodies of those who perished in Pompeii, who were trapped and covered in debris, left imprints in the ash as they decayed. These imprints were used to make the plaster casts over the bones you can see on display when visiting Pompeii.
In Herculaneum, those who were unable to escape in time were exposed to the pyroclastic flow, which instantly incinerated them. Dozens of skeletons were unearthed inside boathouses along the shore, the remains (and treasures) of those hiding and/or waiting to be rescued. This is, in fact, one of the first things you see as you enter the archeological site. It is a grim and shocking reminder of how ancient Herculaneum fell.
We were unsure what to expect when we visited Herculaneum, having researched some, but not extensively. After passing through the main entrance/shop, we headed to the staircase to the lower level. The ruins of ancient Herculaneum are located lower than the current city, which provides an opportunity to see the excavated ruins from a unique high vantage point.
The different conditions and levels of ash coverage between the two cities, meant different levels of accessibility and difficulty in excavation. As a result, the Herculaneum archeological site is smaller than that of Pompeii, with only a fraction of its original size uncovered. Most of Herculaneum remains buried, some of which is underneath the modern towns of Ercolano and Portici.
After reaching the lower level and heading through the main walkway above the boat houses, we reached the Terrace of M. Nonius Balbus. Named after the politician who funded the terrace after an earthquake damaged the city, it centered around a large statue.
We were then able to wander through the archeological site at will. Noticeable when visiting Herculaneum, is how "complete" the town feels. With many buildings in tact, second stories visible, the vivid paintings on walls, the marbled and mosaiced floors, the numerous artifacts, (and significantly less tourists visiting), Herculaneum feels more of a ghost town abandoned, rather than an archeological site.
There are directional street signs and signs on each building you can enter, but they are subtle and add to the ghost town feel. We followed the signs and wandered into buildings with near full access, only the occasional rope or barrier to advise not to venture any further.
As visitors we had direct access to rooms with phenomenal frescos painted onto full walls, we walked over and on top of mosaic floors and into private rooms and gardens.
Herculaneum felt less restricted, less commercial and much more intimate than Pompeii. (And we love Pompeii).
One of the first homes we entered was the House of the Deer, which was once a luxury villa. This private home featured beautiful mosaic and marble chipped floors that surrounded a central garden where many marbled statues were discovered.
The vivid colours in the marble and mosaics on the floors and on the fresco walls are astounding.
Opposite the House of the Deer is the extravagant House of the Relief of Telephus. With its large atrium, coloured columns and beautiful marbled masks hanging between the columns, it was a site to behold. It was evident immediately that the homes in Herculaneum were owned by the elite and wealthy members of society.
Similar to Pompeii, many shops and restaurants (or caupona) were discovered in the ancient city, with beautiful marbled tops and large canisters ready for storing and dispersing food.
The different conditions on the day of the eruption provided very different levels of preservation between the two cities. In Pompeii, the rocks destroyed most of the buildings, none of the second levels survived, but in Herculaneum, the conditions preserved not only strong structures, but wood, paper books/scrolls and organic materials, included food and human waste. In the Villa of the Papyri in Herculaneum, approximately 1,800 scrolls were found containing city records and poetry.
We also entered the beautiful Samnite House, with an impressive marble chipped entrance outside, that leads through a hallway into an large atrium. The upper section is closed with stucco columns and balconies affixed to the walls and an open skylight with gargoyle decoration. A small pool was centered on the floor to collect any rain water. Click here to see a quick walk though of the Samnite House atrium.
One of the most beautiful and impressive buildings we entered was the College of Augustus (Sacello degli Augustali). A small building dedicated to the Gods, it consisted of one large room with two entrances. The main room is split by large columns, the furthest containing a colourful painted altar with depictions of Hercules, Juno and Minerva.
The colours are vibrant and the fresco details delicate and soft. It is hard to believe they were painted centuries ago and buried in layers of ash. We could have stayed and admired the details for hours.
Click here to see a video of the Sacello degli Augustali.
Near one of the entrances lays the body of what is believed to be one of the employees of the religious center, who died there, in his bed. Apparently, it is the only body found with parts of a preserved brain, turned to glass.
Eerie but utterly fascinating. According to the National Geographic, the glass shards are the first example of its kind ever found in any ancient (or modern) context.
While exploring, we noticed a sign indicating the Central Thermae (baths) and entered what appeared to be a rather open and empty space. Unsure what we would see, we pressed on.
Across the space, we then passed through a small open doorway and entered a small room with an unbelievable mosaic floor. We were shocked (and still are) that we were allowed to walk into the room and onto the nautical mosaic floor of the women's bath. Is this allowed? Why is this allowed?
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Inside, we noticed a second doorway on the left. This led to a second small room with a geometric mosaic floor and yet another doorway to the left. Walking across the pristine mosaics, feeling the cool shade inside, it was easy to imagine women sat around the bench, relaxing. The last doorway was roped off, but we could see it opened up to a large room with a tub, likely used to heat the water.
NB (August 2023): Italy is experiencing an unprecedented heatwave, with temperatures reaching 40C / 104F, and as a result, most cities are on red alert. Dress for the heat in breathable cottons/linens, bring a hat, wear sunscreen and stay hydrated.
Nearby is the House with the Black Hall, so named for the rooms covered in stunning black frescos. One of the most luxurious villas at Herculaneum, the House with the Black Hall has carbonized wooden crossbars in the large entranceway. The villa housed many rooms, some extravagant with vaulted ceilings and elaborate frescos.
We didn't manage to enter the House of the Mosaic Atrium and see the beautiful mosaic tiles, but we passed it and its beautiful garden on our way out of the archeological site, wishing we could stay longer to explore. Apparently the high heat has severely damaged the tiles, leaving the floor uneven and waved. It is said that among the frescos and artifacts, a small wooden cradle was discovered in the house, though it is unclear whether the baby or its parents survived.
We reluctantly left Herculaneum and the wonders there within, moving onto our next destination, but we vowed to return one day and give the archeological site the time and patience to explore that it deserves.