Rustic Luxury: An Honest Review of Juma Amazon Lodge in Brazil
The journey to the Amazon emerged from endless meetings, deadlines, and the desperate need to completely unplug. The goal was something new, relaxing and off the grid. The remote natural beauty of the Amazon checked all the boxes.
The Amazon Rainforest, the world's largest tropical rainforest, spans across multiple countries, the majority of it landing in Brazil. Accommodation options vary from rustic and minimal eco-lodges to luxurious high-end cabins. Juma Amazon Lodge was (and is) the best of both worlds.
How to Get to Juma Amazon Lodge:
From wherever you originate, guests of Juma Amazon Lodge begin in Manaus, Brazil. From Manaus, there are two transfer options: by water or by by air. Water transfers are included in the cost of booking a stay, with a prearranged pick-up from your hotel in Manaus, or direct from the airport. Air transfers (via sea plane) are arranged at an extra cost.
Originally we wanted to arrive via air transfer and depart via water transfer, but the sea plane flight was too short to justify the expense. Juma Amazon Lodge partners with CTA (Cleiton Taxi Aereo) and requests that guests reach out to arrange air transfers directly. The twenty minute flight would be on a luxurious eight seat sea plane, at a cost of $10,000 Brazilian Real for one way (approximately $2,800 Canadian or $2,000 USD). The cost is the same regardless of how many seats are filled, so if you are travelling with a larger group, this could be a good option, but for us as a couple, the cost was too much for such short flight. Having enjoyed a sea plane arrival in the Maldives, we were sure the view would have been spectacular.
In the early hours of the morning, a Juma representative picked us up from the airport, and after a quick stop at their sister hotel Juma Opera to pick up other guests, drove us to the main port. After about thirty minutes, the crew helped load the bags onto the first speedboat ride, which took us across the Amazon River and to the infamous "Meeting of the Waters", the natural phenomenon where the Amazon River meets the dark waters of Rio Negro, but refuses to mix.
Luxury Travel Tip: If you want to experience flying over the Amazon, book a private Amazon Rainforest Panoramic Airplane Flight, where you can marvel at the spectacular views over Manaus and the Amazon.
After a little over an hour on the Amazon River, we disembarked on a remote stretch of land and boarded one of the waiting buses for a long bus ride to the next port stop. Mid way through the forty-five minute drive, we stopped at a small shop for a bathroom break and to purchase drinks and snacks (and the most refreshing coconut water). Arriving at the next port stop, the bus backed onto the dirt road.
We emerged from the cool interior and waited outside in the humidity for our second speedboat to arrive. Many stood in the shade by the eccentric Armenio's small wooden shop stand, a local man selling fresh coconuts and delicious Brazil nuts. He demonstrated how he opened and cleaned the Brazil nuts, and offered each of us a sample to taste. Delicious. After another hour of speeding down the winding rivers, we finally arrived at Juma Amazon Lodge. The transfer was long, but not uncomfortable and a good introduction to the Amazon rainforests and the people that lived within its borders.
Amenities at Juma Amazon Lodge
Common Areas:
From the water level, when we first arrived, we climbed the steep staircase to the main common area, a lovely outdoor space that overlooked the glistening water, and a cool indoor area where staff were waiting with refreshments. This small bungalow houses the bar, reception desk, fresh water taps, restrooms, games, and is the only area in the entire lodge where WIFI is available (well, mainly). In addition to meals, Juma Amazon Lodge serves "High Tea" daily at 5pm in the common area, which includes fresh coffee, tea, cakes and snacks.
Just off of the common area, there is a catwalk path to another open bungalow, fitted with multiple comfortable hammocks. Due to its proximity to the common area, WIFI is usually available in the hammock bungalow, but could be intermittent, depending on your location. WIFI is only available in the common areas during working hours, approximately 7a to 9p daily. Some of the rooms closer to the common area picked up a weak WIFI signal, as did the nearby pool area.
Click the arrows below to see photos of the Juma Amazon Lodge amenities >
Juma Amazon Lodge Entrance
The newly arrived guests were split into groups with their designated guide. Ours, the only one who spoke English, was an older gentleman named Feliciano. He translated as the main representative explained the rules of the lodge, including meals, excursions and water conservation. They also provided each of the guests with a free water canister to use during your stay and take home as a souvenir. After which, we were escorted across the many wooden (and very tall) catwalks to our private bungalow.
After lunch on the day we arrived, we opted not to go on excursion. We casually unpacked and with the majority of the guests away, we decided to enjoy the quiet of the Amazon and visit the pool. Yes, Juma Amazon Lodge has a pool. Located down a set of steep steps, at the water level the "pool" is in fact a section of the Amazon river. A beautifully decorated floating wooden deck surrounds river water, equipped with a protective barrier to keep out the larger, more dangerous inhabitants (while allowing some fish to pass through). It was warm and very relaxing. We swam in the Amazon River!
Accommodation:
Having decided to splurge on the best accommodation available at Juma Amazon Lodge, our huge bungalow was the furthest away from the main common area, a full fifteen minute walk. All of the bungalows at Juma are connected via wooden catwalks on long wooden stilts, to accommodate the rising waters throughout the year. Having visited in April, the water level had begun rising (fairly quickly), but most of the catwalk and bungalow stilts remained exposed. Some felt sturdier than others, some were clearly more weathered and shook as you walked on them, but all were secure.
The Juma Bungalow exceeded our expectations. A large circular bungalow with a full wrap-around deck, it was fully equipped with a king sized canopy bed, large ensuite bathroom with double sinks, double showers and a deep barrel tub. There was also a side table with a coffee machine and fridge, with complimentary water, storage shelves for your luggage and clothing, comfortable seating area and separate dining area. The wrap around deck lead to a full platform deck with outdoor shower and sun bed, overlooking the calming waters of the river. It was secluded and spectacular.
< Click to see a Video Walkthrough of our Juma Amazon Lodge Bungalow.
We had plenty of space to spread out and relax. The wooden slats that made up the floor had space between them in sections and we could see the glistening river below us. The double showers were powerful and could be used together. The barrel tub was a welcome luxury, but did take some practice getting in and out of, and did take some time to fill up enough to sit submerged. Well worth it on days you needed a soak.
Save for the entrance, the walls were made primarily of glass, but there were many curtains and shades available if you wanted privacy, or to block out the sun for a late lie-in. The roof, like all the bungalows, was made primarily from interwoven palm leaves. It was secure and dry when it rained, but does require Juma Amazon Lodge to replace the roof periodically. We witnessed the workers rebuilding a couple of bungalows during our stay.
The only "issue" we had in our room, was the presence of a lot of tiny ants in the bathroom and a few on the bed. Somehow they got in but all perished. This wasn't an issue for us, we simply washed them away, but we did let the reception know so they could take a look. The staff were prompt and apologetic about it, the owner checked in on us a few times asking whether it had been resolved, even though we didn't make a big deal about it at all. We are of the belief that if you choose to travel to remote tropical locations, like the Amazon Rainforest, you should be prepared to have a few unwanted guests.
Meals:
After a quick walkthrough of our spectacular Juma bungalow, we changed and made our way back across the catwalks to the restaurant area, where we admired the caiman lurking in the waters below. They was at least one caiman every time we passed, sometimes up to four in close vicinity. It was fascinating to watch them float. On the second morning, near the restaurant, we were greeted by a family of capuchin monkeys, who sat on the railings, hoping someone would offer them some fresh fruit. Signs advise guests not to feed the wildlife, but the staff do leave fruit out for the monkeys and sometimes toss food into the water for the caimans.
Lunch, as most of the meals were at Juma Amazon Lodge, was served buffet style in a large circular bungalow, with each group sitting at assigned tables with their guide. Guests were always coupled with their guide, but depending on the number of days booked, the group changed. As we had booked a long six nights, our group changed a few times. The first group we sat with was a family originally from the US. An English speaking travel agent and her quiet Brazilian husband, now living in Rio with their two children. Her elderly mother and boyfriend, came to join them from the US for a visit and a trip the Amazon. Sharing the table with strangers was sometimes awkward for us, not being very sociable people, but we were polite and made nice for the three nights they were staying.
Click the arrows below to scroll through photos of our meals at Juma Amazon Lodge >
Romantic Breakfast, Juma Amazon Lodge
Also part of our group were two couples who mainly spoke French, but could get by with a little English. Our guide, Feliciano, sat with them during meals, as he also spoke some French. A few days later, after the US family and French couples departed, we were then coupled with two young women from Europe rekindling their friendship after having moved apart for work, and a long-time friend couple from the US who made a dramatic entrance, arriving at the lodge on a private sea plane. The tables sometimes changed, depending on the number of people in your group, but the guide and/or the staff would advise you once you entered the meal area. Even when Feliciano sat with at a different table, he always came over to greet us and confirm the next activities on the agenda.
Upon entering the meal bungalow, a stand was set up near the buffet that listed the food options available in the buffet. There was always fresh fruit juices, soup, multiple salads, multiple protein options (with at least being fish), multiple vegetable side options, fresh fruit, a rich dessert (usually a cake or flan), plus coffee, tea and water. The kitchen also accommodated special diets, when requested. The travel agent from the US was vegan, and the kitchen made her a special dish for every meal, even when there were vegan options in the buffet. Once, Feliciano asked us about Halloumi cheese (which he was not familiar with but was on the menu) and when we said we liked it, he requested a special plate of it just for us.
After a few nights at Juma Amazon Lodge, our dinner switched from buffet to a la carte. At lunch, the staff shared the dinner menu and we made our selections for dinner. We discovered later that evening, that when there are fewer guests at the lodge, they switch to a la carte meals to prevent food wasting with a large buffet. The food was high quality, both delicious and in presentation, something completely unexpected so deep in the jungle. Though the intent was to prevent food wastage, the result was a high class, multi-course meal.
Excursions:
Juma Amazon Lodge offers excursion packages for three, four and five day stays, but we had booked six, so we had the option to repeat certain excursions, when available. On that first day, having spent a full day walking in Bogota, and not having slept very much since we left Toronto two days earlier, while the remainder of our group headed out on their first excursion, we headed back to our bungalow to unpack and relax.
The available excursions depends on the length of stay booked, though there is no set itinerary. The local guides change their plans per day depending on the number of people and most importantly, the weather, but if a guest didn't have a particular excursion included in their itinerary, they could always request it (sometimes at an additional cost).
Juma Amazon Lodge Excursion List (Itineraries):
After dinner on that first night, our group ventured out on the Night Tour to see caiman, and once again we opted out. In years past, the guides would actually attempt to find and catch baby caiman for the guests to touch, but it has since been deemed dangerous and inhumane. We relaxed and caught up on some well needed sleep. Even if you don't see caiman on the Night Tour, just the experience of being on a boat on the Amazon River under the night sky is well worth the trip.
On our second day, the group were up very early to experience Sunrise on the Juma River. We had opted not to partake this time, but the group said it was beautiful with a large amount of birds present. The plan was for the group to go on the first Forest Walk in the Amazon Rainforest after breakfast, but the weather had other plans. As typical for the location and time of year, the skies opened up and unleashed a major rainstorm. We tried to wait it out in the common area, but after an hour of heavy rain, it was deemed too dangerous and we headed back to our bungalow. We relaxed on our deck, watching the rain and sipping coffee until lunch. Remember to be flexible, nature doesn't make accommodations.
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The rain tapered off to a trickle and after lunch, we finally headed out on our first excursion, the Rowing Canoe Tour. Loading into the long speedboats (called canoes by the staff) the group were taken to a place on the river where a half dozen wooden green canoes were tied up. One by one, we somehow balanced ourselves and settled into the canoes. Wooden, hand carved paddles in hand, we explored the river. Paddling was tough at times, but we were surrounded by the forest and birds, it was beautiful and very relaxing.
The next day, after another delicious breakfast, the weather was on our side and we managed to go on a Forest Walk, where we did Hike to a Cedar Tree. The terrain was relatively flat, but the forest was dense and humid. We trekked through the vegetation, stopping to hear facts from our guide or focus on specific trees or insects (specifically the tiny ants that indigenous peoples have used as mosquito repellant.) Wearing hiking pants that were cut off mid calf, my ankles were brutally attached by tiny fire ants, but even with that and the overwhelming humidity, it was a wonderful experience. We would highly recommend that you wear long pants when walking in the rainforest and use insect repellent. Some wore long sleeves as well, while others were fine with short sleeves. It is a balance between insect exposure and heat tolerance.
Since this hike was the Walk with BBQ, we hopped back onto the speedboat and headed to another section of rainforest, where a wooden staircase lead us to an open air picnic area. The Juma Amazon staff had prepared a BBQ feast in the rainforest. Grilled chicken, sausage, vegetables and the most delicious Brazilian fish called Tambaqui. It was absolutely fantastic and loved by all. We had the opportunity to enjoy this BBQ twice during our stay and it was just as amazing the second time.
Click the arrows below to scroll through photos of the Amazon Rainforest Hikes >
On the Amazon River
Back at the lodge, we cleaned up and headed back to an afternoon by the pool, while the rest of our group headed to a local village for a tour and demonstration, the Visit to the House of a Caboclo and Lecture. We spoke to our group that night about the excursion and they all thoroughly enjoyed the experience, which included explanations on medicinal plants and manioc flour production. That night, the rain clouds cleared up and exposed the most beautiful star-filled sky. Out in the wilderness, with minimal light pollution, the sky absolutely sparkled.
Having booked through the Juma Amazon Lodge website, we were offered the option to add on a Romantic Experience, which included a special breakfast served in our bungalow. That morning, as we waited for the breakfast to be delivered, we stood on our deck looking out at the water and a flock of dozens of parrokets (known as a pandemonium) flew overhead. A huge breakfast of coffee, fresh juice, fruits, cheeses, meats and bread was delivered, and we enjoyed them at our table inside the bungalow. Full to the brim, we had so much left over. With no warning, a large family of capuchin monkeys emerged from the trees, jumping onto the bungalow's straw roof and onto the deck. The staff offered them some of the leftover fruit and the small grabby monkeys came close to take them. Click Here if you'd like to see a video of the monkeys visiting the bungalow.
Unique Travel Experience: For something unique in the middle of Amazon Rainforest, forego the comfort of the lodge and opt for a multi-day Amazon Survival Tour, where you will maximize your exposure to the natural world, camping in the wilderness.
After lunch that day, we enjoyed a long speedboat ride along the river, stopping to see birds resting on tree tops peeking out of the water (the majority of them hid under the rising waters), a Visit to a Kapok Tree, one of the oldest Sumaúma trees (approximately 300 years old) and a floating shop run by locals. We enjoyed refreshments on the floating dock, watching dolphins peek out of the water as the sun began to set. We were on the lookout for the infamous pink dolphins that inhabit the Amazon, but they alluded us.
The next day, we hiked the Amazon rainforest again, a Forest Walk, this time in a different section, less dense than the first location, where we handled coconut grubs and tiny tiny frogs. The terrain was mainly flat and the path among the trees narrow, but it felt much more spacious. The heat and humidity persisted, as did the small fire ants, but it felt open and breathable. Another group joined us, but walked a different path. Even knowing they were there, in the denseness of the vegetation hid them from us completely.
After lunch, the second part of our Romantic Experience occurred, a private boat ride with a charcuterie board of meats, cheeses and nuts, and a bottle of sparking wine to enjoy the sunset over the water. We sipped our bubbles and watched the sky turn shades of pink. We had "chaperones" of course, to drive the boat, but we were told to ignore them and pretend we were alone. Of course, we shared our food with them.
After dinner that night, as the other members of our group retired to their bungalows, we headed back onto the speedboat for our Overnight in the Forest. In the darkness, we were escorted back to the open picnic area we had our BBQ lunch a few days early. Beyond the tables and small bathrooms, was a large open room with hammocks. The walls were open, with only a screen separating us from the wilderness. In the darkness, we nestled into the hammocks to spend the night in the jungle. Though a very romantic idea, the hammocks were not as comfortable as those available on our bungalow deck. Between the stiffness and the dust, we slept very little and wondered why we left the beauty and comfort of our huge bungalow suite. Though we did hear the curious sounds of the jungle, including the rolling growls of Howler Monkeys coming closer to us in the darkness.
After a long night, we sped back to the main lodge to enjoy a delicious breakfast, with our (new) group. When they headed out for their chance at a Rowing Canoe Tour on the River, we headed back to the comfort of our bungalow and took well needed nap. After lunch, we were back on the river, this time to Plant a Tree in the Amazon Rainforest. This was the tenth tree we have planted in honour of my dad, who passed away ten years earlier.
Back on the speedboat, we picked up the rest of the group at the lodge and headed to shaded secluded areas along the river to attempt Piranha Fishing with long wooden rods and pieces of raw meat. After changing locations three times, our guide managed to catch one for us to see, but no one else was successful.
We were lucky enough to witness a family of wild Amazon ducks swim by while we were fishing. There is something so beautiful and relaxing about speeding along the river from the front of the speedboat, the views are simply spectacular. We did keep in touch with our new friends after we left and they went out again the next day to try piranha fishing, and everyone in the boat was successful.
After a short break at the lodge, enjoying refreshments in the common area, the group headed back onto the boat, headed to the Observation Tower, which ironically is very close and visible from our bungalow at Juma Amazon Lodge. A tall wooden tower with many steps, it served as a wonderful lookout point over the tops of trees and the vastness of the river.
Interesting Fact: We were told by our guide that the path to our bungalow was originally built as path to the observation tower, but due to the presence of too many snakes in the area (especially after nightfall), the path was partially removed and the tower only accessible by boat.
We did have the option to join another group that was heading out for Tree Climbing, but we had already decided that we were not going to partake in that activity. The reviews were mixed and not being in the best physical shape during this trip, we thought it best to opt out.
Service:
We shared another delicious a la carte dinner that last night before heading back to the room to organize our things head to bed. We finished packing and left our bags outside the bungalow (as requested) and headed across the catwalks to breakfast for the final time. We exchanged our sad goodbyes with the guide and new friends, before jumping on the larger speedboat for the long trek back to the main port in Manaus. Along the way, our guide spotted a sloth in the trees, and we stopped to capture a few photos.
Everyone that we encountered at Juma Amazon Lodge was great, from the main staff, the cleaning crew, the construction workers, the guides and even the owners. Some were more fluent in English than others, but even those who could not communicate well, easily navigated with the help of translator apps on their phones. Everyone was friendly and appreciated any attempt to speak Portuguese.
In our first group, we had one guest (the US Travel Agent living in Rio) who constantly criticized and berated our guide, making complaints to him and to the front desk that he failed to communicate effectively and share important information, specifically about excursion details and what to wear. The rest of us in the group did not share her frustrations. He provided his recommendations on what to wear, depending on the location, but always added that it was up to your personal preference. Having travelled to many tropical locations, and having our own specific likes and needs, we would recommend that you do your own research beforehand and bring with you options for clothing, so that you can decide for yourself based on the weather, your preferences and the guides recommendations.
With all those memories fresh in our minds, we can now imagine returning to Amazon, exploring the rainforest beyond Brazil. Visiting the Amazon may have emerged spontaneously from a stressful time in our lives, but the experience was unique, exhilarating, and one that we will never forget.
Juma Amazon Lodge, Amazon, Brazil
Overall Ranking - 4/5
Juma Amazon Lodge is a wonderful mix of rustic seclusion, luxurious amenities and thrilling adventure. Deep in the Amazon Rainforest, it can be a quick taste of the life in the Amazon, or (like us) an extended stay to truly explore the wonders that this special part of the world has to offer. As a guest, you can be as busy or as relaxed as you wish, opting for a multitude of possible excursions. The staff are all helpful and knowledgeable, but keep in mind, Mother Nature always has the last word. Highly recommended for couples and families who seek serenity and love nature.
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