For us, Italy is not just a bucket-list destination, it is a second home, with family, friends and delicious food.
With a large Italian family residing in the central region, I have spent many a summer in my youth exploring the sights, sounds and especially the tastes of Italy. After a long hiatus, a family wedding provided the perfect excuse to return to my roots, introduce my husband to my Italian family and relish in the joy of watching him taste all the mouth-watering dishes Italy has to offer. A trip of a lifetime in Italy.
NB: (July 2024) Italy is currently experiencing a heat wave, with temperatures exceeding 40 degrees. Be prepared while travelling, by dressing in light, breathable cotton/linen clothing and stay hydrated. Rome is littered with free water fountains available to drink or refill water bottles while exploring the city.
We landed in the eternal city of Rome, Italy in the early morning, the summer sun already bright and hot. After settling in to our beautiful hotel, we wandered and explored the area in a happy daze. Wanting a location that was within walking distance to the major sites of Rome, but away from the chaos of tourists, we booked the boutique hotel, the Pantheon Caesar Relais. An elegant room with a wrap-around balcony (a rare find in Rome), the hotel overlooks the ruins of the Largo di Torre Argentina.
After booking, we researched restaurants in the area, looking for the best places to eat in Rome, and stumbled upon Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922. The restaurants unassuming rustic exterior and simple outdoor patio was not uncommon for the Campo de' Fiori area, but there was something special about Ristorante Pancrazio. Tucked away from the main square, Ristorante Pancrazio has an intriguing and fascinating history.
Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922: What makes this Roman Restaurant so special
Pancrazio Restaurant was built on top of ancient Roman ruins. First opened as a tavern in 1922 by Pancrazio Macchioni, an attempt to expand the premises in the 1950s revealed several rooms from the first century Theatre of Pompeii (or Theatre of Pompay). Built by Pompay the Great, it was the first permanent theatre in Rome and the location of the murder of Julius Caesar. Dining at Ristorante da Pancrazio dal 1922 may have been born out of convenience, but it quickly became our favourite "hidden" location in Rome, Italy.
Click below to scroll through photos from inside Ristorante Pancrazio >
The second time we ate at Ristorante Pancrazio for dinner, we sat outside on the patio and enjoyed a delicious meal and bottle of rose. Stepping into the restaurant to pay, the owner sat behind the main desk and asked if we enjoyed our meal and had a chance to see the ruins. Upon saying no, even though the staff were cleaning up for the evening, he invited us to descend to the lower level and look around.
Descending the marble staircase, we passed remains of statues, vases and columns. We entered into the beautifully preserved cave rooms, once part of the Theatre of Pompay, now used for fine dining. Remnants of painted walls and ancient amphoras decorate the dimly-lit spaces, with treasures around every corner. It was fascinating to see first hand and we were awestruck to be standing within the ruins. The archeological and tragic history of Pancrazio definitely makes it one of the most unique restaurants to visit while in Rome.
Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922:Â How to find the Restaurant
Located in the famous Campo de' Fiori district of Rome, Ristorante Pancrazio is located near the central square, just east of the Jewish Ghetto. The main piazza is a large open space, where buskers often perform, lined on every side with shops and restaurants. On the weekend, the square comes alive with the open air shops of a popular farmers market. At night, it comes alive with the sounds of patrons dining on the patios that spill into the space.
Click below to watch buskers perform in Campo de' Fiori Piazza >
To see more videos from around Rome, click here.
Just passed the chaos in a neighbouring (and much smaller piazza) sits Ristorante Pancrazio. Shielded by the adjacent buildings, the noise is subdued and the chaos becomes calm. With only one other restaurant located across the small piazza, the space is quiet and romantic. Often, buskers spill over from the main piazza and serenade diners with a song or beautiful piece of music.
Staying at the nearby Pantheon Caesar Relais, it was a mere 8 minute walk from hotel to restaurant. The area is safe, clean and easy to maneuver. On a later visit, staying closer to the Colosseum at Residenza Flavia, it was a longer 25 minute walk from the apartment to restaurant. To read more about visiting the Colosseum, read: Visiting the Ancient Colosseum in Rome: A Travelogue and Guide.
The walk from Residenza Flavia is picturesque and worth every step along the beautiful cobbles of Rome. In fact, on one visit, staying closer to the Spanish Steps at the luxurious My Spanish Steps Hotel, we opted for a local taxi to bring us back to Ristorante Pancrazio. The 10 minute drive guaranteed us a delicious dinner in a beautiful location.
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UNIQUE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE: Want to explore the famous Roman areas near Ristorante Pancrazio? This unique night wine and food tour, explores the Largo di Torre Argentina, Jewish Ghetto and Campo de' Fiori areas in a small group.
Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922:Â What to eat (everything is delicious)
The history may pull you to visit Ristorante Pancrazio the first time, but you will return for the romantic atmosphere and especially the food. Oh my God, the food!
On our very first night in Rome, we dined with family who introduced us to the traditional Roman dish of Cacio e Pepe pasta (which literally translates to cheese and pepper). Simple, yet decadent, the creamy Pecorino Romano and pepper sauce is one of Rome’s most ancient recipes, dating back centuries. It very quickly became our go-to selection at every Roman restaurant thereafter, including Ristorante Pancrazio.
Click below to scroll through photos from our first meal at Ristorante Pancrazio >
On our first visit to Ristorante Pancrazio del 1922, we enjoyed a chilled bottle of rosé sitting on the outdoor patio on a warm summers night. We began with a starter with Cacio e Pepe Potato Croquettes then feasted on the best Cacio e Pepe Pasta we’ve ever had. The homemade spaghetti is thick but soft, and coated in a spicy cream sauce that is to die for. As we ate, buskers appeared, one singing opera and and another playing accordion music, it was pure magic.
On our second visit (the next night), we sat at the same patio table, was served by the same waiter, made the same meal selections (Cacio e Pepe Potato Croquettes, and Cacio e Pepe Pasta with a bottle of Rose) and it was just as delicious. The prices are very reasonable for the quality of food, a meal for two with a starter and a bottle of wine often totaled 50 Euro. While paying the bill inside, the owner invited us to see the ruins downstairs. Happily, we marvelled over the stone arched rooms, partial columns, and ancient paintings still visible on the walls.
On our third visit (a few nights later), we again sat on the patio and ordered Cacio e Pepe Pasta, but added the delicately fried Zucchini Flowers with Anchovies. Though neither of us are huge anchovy fans, the taste was subtle and sweet, and the flour coating light and delicate. Not what we expected.
Click below to scroll through photos from our group meal at Ristorante Pancrazio >
Upon returning to Rome two years later, we stayed in the same area near the Largo di Torre Argentina, at The Ancient Rome View Apartment, and visited Ristorante Pancrazio the very first night. We had been dreaming about that Cacio e Pepe Pasta for years and were not disappointed.
After two weeks of exploring other areas of Italy, we returned to Rome for a few nights and on the first, we invited friends and family to join us on the patio. We ordered many bottles of wine and a variety of dishes to share, including Potato Croquettes, Zucchini Flowers, a Caprese Salad with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, the seasonal (and very special) Fried Artichokes, and of course, Cacio e Pepe Pasta. Everyone walked away stuffed and happy, and the all inclusive cost for 8 people totaled a reasonable 250 Euro.
The next night, we returned just the two of us and while my husband ordered the Cacio e Pepe Pasta (again), I opted for the Eggplant Parmigiana. Rivaling my Italian mother's homemade version, it was fantastic. I savoured every melt-in-your-mouth bite. We have every intention on returning year after year and reviewing every dish Ristorante Pancrazio has on their menu. Everything we ordered was fresh and delicious.
LUXURY TRAVEL TIP: Want to learn how to make some of these delicious Roman dishes? This unique sunset cooking class takes place in the Roman Jewish Ghetto and focuses on ancient Roman cooking methods.
Ristorante Pancrazio is family run restaurant in Rome, Italy, with the owner often found sitting behind the main desk inside, directing patrons and chatting while they pay their bill. His wife is often seen either helping the wait staff or sitting off in a corner, enjoying a fresh plate of pasta and a glass of red wine. On all of our visits, we have only ever seen two different waiters who serve all the tables. Traditionally dressed, and often tight-lipped, they speak to an old world charm that is oddly inviting.
Today, it appears they have made some changes to the website and their menu. Many of the favourites we enjoyed, like the best Roman Cacio e Pepe Pasta, are still listed on the now smaller menu, with new selections available. We have no doubt they will be just as delicious and will need to return soon to taste them first hand.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and indulge!
Ristorante Pancrazio del 1922, Rome, Italy
Overall Ranking - 4.5/5
by far, one of the best restaurants in Rome, Italy. Tucked away from the chaos of the famous Campo de' Fiori area, leans into the romantic and secretive atmosphere. Its unique and archeological history will astound you, but the food will keep you coming back for more (and more). If you're looking for authentic, delicious Italian dishes, without the high price tag or pretense of a tourist trap, Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922 is definitely the place for you.
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